The 2019 Barolo Castelletto is dazzling in the way it marries fruit density with the dark, balsamic-tinged profile and structural feel that is the signature of wines from Castelletto. Black cherry, plum, mocha, lavender, sage and espresso lend gorgeous nuance. The 2019 is quite rich and yet the tannins - often a challenge here - are handled with real skill. Tremendous.

This is a relatively new wine from Comm. G.B. Burlotto that brings us to the village of Monforte d'Alba. Now in its second release, the 2019 Barolo Castelletto is a wine that Fabio Alessandria had long wanted to make. In fact, he was specifically looking for land in this MGA site (located at 500 meters in elevation, with Perno to the north and Ginestra to the south). "I was looking in that valley because I wanted to make a wine with more backbone and tannic power," he says. Indeed, this wine presents a vertical personality that is straight-shooting, precise and direct. This beautiful 2019 vintage gives a true taste of his vision. This is a classic wine with hints of wild fruit, mint and chalky minerality over a lean-bodied mouthfeel. It is certainly a wine of energy, tension and lasting power.

‘We set on structure and finesse; this is not a vineyard for achieving concentration.’ Just mid ruby. Very deep and distinct from Verduno, but perfectly focused on the fruit. Cherry rather than Verduno’s raspberry. Plenty of concentration, but with the same elegance. The tannins are radically different – layered and sandy underneath the fruit – while racy acidity integrates fully on the finish. (WS)