The 2013 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is fabulous. The aromatics alone are thrilling. This is what Barolo is all about. Rose petal, holiday spice cake, leather, blood orange and macerated cherry abound. Silky and powerful, the 2013 shows tons of density on the palate and yet remains light on its feet for such a big wine. The wine's sensuality offers a mirage of accessibility, but the 2013 is best cellared for at least a handful of years. There is nothing like Barolo, and this is a terrific example. The 2013 saw 36-38 days on the skins followed by five years in cask, with a preference for larger and more neutral oak that allows for a more gradual pace of aging in the cellar than smaller casks.

The Cavallotto 2013 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe feels magically cool even as the wine warms in the glass. Eucalyptus, menthol and medicinal herbs rise from the bouquet, with dark fruit and savory spice in tow. When you first open the bottle, it shows a distinct mineral character with crushed aspirin, limestone and graphite. I opened a second bottle a few days before this tasting and had both bottles side by side to compare. Both showed impressive results with a pristine level of focus, sharpness and linearity. With aeration, those dark fruit nuances come to the forefront, showing dried cherry, plum and candied orange peel. A few hours later, you pick up on leather, tobacco and cedar wood. This is a fluid and ever-changing wine that is well worth adding to your cellar selection. What a beauty.

Mid ruby. Smoke-tinged nose with mace and heady earthy notes. Lots of fruit here and quite an elegant structure. Lots of juicy acidity supports the wine. A long, clean and tight finish. Nice balance of sweet and savoury. (AC)