Ceretto's 1999 Barolo Prapò boasts tons of depth and sheer power. Mint, new leather, smoke, tobacco and licorice add a measure of complexity. There is plenty of weight in the glass, yet the tannins remain rustic and problematic. Wilder notes along with hints of white pepper, game and juniper berries add complexity, but the wine's lack of polish is too much to overcome.

The nose of the 1999 Barolo Prapo, a deep garnet, is dominated by asphalt and anisette aromas with the vanilla and mocha of the oak more in the background. Long, firm, and intense in flavor, still slightly tannic, it will need some time to round off the slight graininess of its texture. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2018. Importer: Veuve Cliquot, New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 31/10/2003 The nose of the 1999 Barolo Prapo, a deep garnet, is dominated by asphalt and anisette aromas with the vanilla and mocha of the oak more in the background. Long, firm, and intense in flavor, still slightly tannic, it will need some time to round off the slight graininess of its texture. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2018. Medium ruby. Deeply earthy and tarry on the nose, the Prapo shows much Serralunga character in its firmly structured frame and sweet dark fruit, licorice, spice, and cocoa flavors. It is the biggest of these Barolos and should be at its finest between 2009 and 2019. (91)