1990 Ceretto, Barolo, Bricco Rocche

The bouquet of the awesomely concentrated, compelling 1990 Barolo Bricco Rocche soars from the glass, offering aromas of melted road tar, sweet, jammy, cherry fruit, tobacco, and fruitcake. Massive yet graceful flavors cascade over the palate, revealing considerable viscosity, glycerin, and extraction of flavor. The wine is deep, expansive, and chewy. The finish is something to behold. There is undoubtedly plenty of tannin lurking beneath the fruit, so this wine can be drunk now and over the next 15-20 years. Ceretto's 1990 offerings are all outstanding, combining fabulous extract levels with aromatic bouquets and opulent, voluptuously rich flavors, textures, and finishes. The 1989s and 1990s are unquestionably the finest Barolos I have tasted from this firm. Ceretto's proclivity to produce elegant, graceful, easy going wines has not been compromised in either vintage, but the wines boast terrific richness and concentration. The result is a bevy of riveting Barolos that can be drunk early, or aged for 15 or more years. Ceretto has a propensity to produce easy to drink, delicately-styled Piedmontese wines. While this is evident in the two blockbuster vintages of 1989 and 1990, the Ceretto brothers have made more concentrated and powerful wines than usual. Ceretto enjoyed superb success in both vintages, producing wines opulent enough to be drunk, but with enough concentration and richness to last for 10-15 years. These are top class efforts! Kudos to the Ceretto brothers! Importer: Palace Brands, Hartford, CT.

The bouquet of the awesomely concentrated, compelling 1990 Barolo Bricco Rocche soars from the glass, offering aromas of melted road tar, sweet, jammy, cherry fruit, tobacco, and fruitcake. Massive yet graceful flavors cascade over the palate, revealing considerable viscosity, glycerin, and extraction of flavor. The wine is deep, expansive, and chewy. The finish is something to behold. There is undoubtedly plenty of tannin lurking beneath the fruit, so this wine can be drunk now and over the next 15-20 years.

Ceretto's 1990 Barolo Bricco Rocche is the most fresh and firm of these 1990s, although here too, I suspect the fruit will fade before the tannins fully soften. The silkiness of Castiglione Falletto is felt in the elegant, finessed tannins, while the warmth of the vintage comes through on the generous, balsamic finish. The 1990 Bricco Rocche requires considerable aearation before its qualities emerge, but when they do the wine is brilliant.