Mario Fontana's 2013 Barolo is quite a bit more imposing than the Castiglione Falletto bottling. Dark cherry, plum, smoke, licorice, menthol and melted road tar fill out the wine's super-classic, mid-weight frame. The 2013 has more fruit and better balance, along with less austerity, than most other recent vintages have shown. And that, is of course, great news. Powerful, deep and muscular, the 2013 Barolo is a super-classic, old-school Barolo loaded with personality. The 2013 is a blend of fruit from Villero, Mariondino (both in Castiglione Falletto) and Giachini (in La Morra).

Big and slightly oaky nose then rather tough end. (JR)

Cask sample. Tasted blind. Mid ruby showing the first signs of development with orange tinges on the rim. Cool nose of red fruit and a hint of rose petal. Bags of coating tannins and supple red fruit on the palate. Proper depth on the finish. Good stuff. (WS)