Unfortunately the Pianpolvere Soprano 1999 Barolo Bussia was corked, but we had better luck with a stunning bottle of Domenico Clerico’s 1999 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra. 1999 remains an underappreciated vintage and it is one Clerico’s finest. The Ciabot was simply phenomenal. It offered an exotic array of ripe fruit, menthol, toasted oak and mineral notes with superb concentration on the palate and plenty of style. It remains a fresh, vibrant and structured Barolo in need of at least several years of cellaring, but it nevertheless provided much pleasure on this day. While others moved into cheese and dessert, I was quite content to relax by the fireplace with a glass of this very fine Barolo.

Deep, bright red. Ripe, roasted aromas of red berry liqueur, smoke and tar. Wonderfully scented and complex in the mouth, with sweet, insinuating flavors of licorice, berries and tar. Shows the vibrancy of the best examples from this vintage. Finishes with powerful tannins and impressive grip. Built for extended aging.

The 1999 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra, as in the past several years, remains the standard bearer of the house. Lush and ripe on the nose, plummy and with important notes of kirsch liqueur, licorice, and minerals, its rich flavors, dense, packed texture, and ample tar and chocolate are the evidence of superior grapes and cellar work, force and finesse at a very high level. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2022. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411