The 2005 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra has a bit more tannic heft and overall intensity than the Pajana, with salivating intensity and tons of personality to match. The 2005 is a striking Ginestra. Soaring aromatics, chiseled fruit and towering structure will allow the 2005 to age well for another decade-plus. Today, the Ginestra needs more air or further time in bottle than the Pajana. I would opt for the former.

The 2005 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra emerges from the glass with endless layers of sweet spices, menthol, violets and dark fruit on a powerful, authoritative frame. This is a beautifully defined, sculpted wine of the very highest level. Tar, smoke and licorice linger on the finish. The tannins are massive at this stage, and the wine needs time, but the 2005 is undoubtedly one of the stars of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. AG

Perfumed and aromatic, with fresh ripe strawberry and toasty oak. Full-bodied, with focused, chewy tannins and loads of wood and jammy fruit. Powerful. Needs time.

Good deep, saturated red with ruby tones. Lovely perfume of black cherry, plum, soy sauce, cinnamon and flowers; reticent but deep. A silky, intense midweight that's considerably richer than the Pajana. The highly aromatic red fruit flavors really blossomed in the glass with aeration. Finishes round, lush and broad, with harmonious acids and tannins and lingering perfume. This one has the mid-palate material to support its tannins. Clerico's '05 are wonderfully elegant wines.

Another complex, intellectual nose with blackberries, briary, saddle-leather, violets and a saline scent on the sidelines. Superb definition. The palate is powerful, ripe, beautifully balanced with those succulent black cherry fruit interlaced with a citric edge, leading to a finish with tar and leather lingering seductively on the aftertaste. This is another great 2005 from Clerico. Drink 2012-2025. Tasted September 2009.