The 2003 Barolo Percristina, from Mosconi, a south-facing site in Monforte d'Alba, is the most forward of Clerico's Barolos. Early signs of oxidation have begun to creep in. Still, the 2003 is nicely textured, supple and round, with all of the breadth of Mosconi. Here, too, the tannins are imposing, and will only become more so with the passage of time. In a scorching hot year, due south-facing sites are often penalized, as is the case here, although I must point out that the Pajana, which is also from a south-facing site, has handled time more gracefully.

Deep, healthy red, with little amber showing. Distinctly fresher aromas of crushed red berries, cherry candy, mocha, menthol, flowers and minerals. Powerfully structured and very young, with uncanny vibrancy for the vintage. Still a bit youthfully aggressive on the finish but boasts terrific penetration and thrust. Clerico harvested early in 2003 and admitted that he might have gotten some green tannins, but I love the freshness and grip of this example. These vines in Mosconi were planted in 1955, and Clerico bought the vineyard in 1995.