The 2004 Barolo Percristina is a bit more resolved than the Ciabot, yet, it, too, packs a serious punch. At the same time, the differences in pedigree between Ginestra and Mosconi are now quite evident as these two wines have taken slightly divergent paths. The Percristina is more marked by French oak, so the fruit is a bit less fresh and the wine is ever so slightly more evolved. In any other context, the 2004 Percristina would be dazzling. Here, it does play second fiddle, but not by much. A blast of mocha, raspberry jam, cinnamon and dried flowers hits the palate on the explosive finish.

Good deep red. Knockout nose combines red fruits, rose petal, brown spices and camphor, with a slight medicinal reserve. Pure, silky and sweet, offering incredible subtle intensity of flavor. This coats every millimeter of the palate without leaving any impression of weight, thanks to a steely spine that gives it great energy and snap. Wonderfully juicy, imploded wine with a broad, suave, extremely long finish. The locals prize the 2001 version of this wine (rated 95+?), but I give the edge to this vintage for its sheer verve.