The 2020 Barolo Francia is fascinating to taste next to the 2021. A substantial young Barolo, the 2020 offers notable mid-palate density and tons of pure explosive energy. Savory and mineral notes abound, but at this stage, the 2020 is a Barolo of fruit and texture. Practically seamless tannins pull it all together. I have a slight preference for the 2021, but it is neck and neck between these two great Barolos. A second bottle enjoyed in a local restaurant a few days after this tasting was every bit as memorable.

Bright red pale in color, the 2020 Barolo Francia is gorgeous with a bit more structure and depth, though it remains elegant all the way through. Its ripe, pure notes of fresh cherries, roses, incense, and spice are followed by a medium-bodied red with structured, ripe tannins, energetic lift, and gorgeous notes of apricot and tea leaf on the incredibly long finish. While it certainly boasts more depth compared to the 2018, its elegant profile harkens to the gracefulness expressed in many of the best wines in that vintage. It's outstanding all the way through and is going to offer a tremendous amount of pleasure over the next 20 or more years. Drink 2025-2045.

The Giacomo Conterno 2020 Barolo Francia shows balance and elegance with an especially mineral character that is specific to this wine. Red and blue fruit aromas add hints of sweetness, but the bouquet quickly moves to iron ore and dusty ferrous notes. Of these three single-vineyard Barolos, Arione has the finesse, Cerretta has volume and structured tannins and Francia, well, has an even greater sense of tannic intensity. These are age-worthy tannins that still feel quite firm and compact and will need more time to resolve.

Serralunga d’Alba. A year set on elegance, not power or concentration. Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. Very fine but subdued nose – real subtlety and complexity but very slow to show. The palate is perfectly balanced, if very closed and embryonic. Fine tannins adding a little chew on the fluid finish. (WS)