The 1955 is tough to follow, but the 1961 Monfortino proves up to the task. Here it is the wine’s pure textural finesse and inner sweetness that dazzle most of all. In this flight, the 1947 and 1955 got better with air, while the 1961 was at its most beautiful early on.

The 1961 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was especially beautiful and fresh. It offered a similar flavor profile as the 1958 with greater harmony and balance, if not quite as much sheer power.

From a private collection in New York. Great, classic collectable Barolo made by Conterno when both Aldo and Giovanni were at the original family firm. Made only in the finest years; sometimes as few as 600 cases. The wine may have spent between six and 10 years in botte (large wooden casks). Wonderfully jewel-like, almost burgundian fruit. Surely at its peak now. Dry and dusty with some VA. Very clean and fresh, with fully resolved tannin at last! Quite brisk and bracing, at the top of its tree. Very firm, long and ethereal. (JR)