The 1970 Barolo Riserva Monfortino was the last Monfortino Giovanni Conterno bottled in magnum until 1982, when he knew he could ensure consistency by bottling magnums on the line as opposed to by hand, so the 1970 is the only Monfortino of the decade available in magnum. Available theoretically, if you can find it. I once had two, this is the last one. What a wine. Timeless and eternal in the glass, the 1970 is mesmerizing from the moment it is served. Like all of the older wines in this tasting, it is at once mature and yet full of life. The tannins have largely melted away, and yet at fifty years of age, the 1970 possesses tremendous fruit depth and a huge finish. This magnum is perhaps just a tiny bit less thrilling than the best examples I have had, but only by a hair. What a wine!

The monolithic 1970 Barolo Monfortino exhibits plenty of amber in its dark garnet color in addition to earthy, dried fruit, smoke, and tobacco scents. Angular in the mouth, it is big, rich, and well-constituted. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700