As good as the older wines are, the 1971 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is just insanely beautiful. Still deeply colored and intense to the core, the 1971 delivers a classic Monfortino experience. Layers of dark, mineral-infused fruit flow across the palate in a deep, muscular Monfortino endowed with stunning depth. The 1971 shows why it is one of the all-time greats. This is a mind-blowing bottle.

Last Tasted 5/92 Conterno's controversial Monfortino, which often spends 10-12 years in old wood before being bottled, can be a wine with as many flaws as assets. However, even though this 1971 spent nearly eight years in wood, it does not suffer from the excessive levels of volatile acidity that plague vintages such as 1964 and 1967. The wine has thrown less sediment than Conterno's 1971 Barolo-Reserva, but it must be decanted. Even then it requires a steady hand so as not to lose 15% of the volume due to the thick crust at the bottom of the bottle. The nose offers sensational aromas of saddle leather, dried cherry fruit, cedar, tobacco, and tar. Exceptionally full-bodied and rich, as well as smoother and less tannic than Conterno's 1971 Barolo-Reserva, this flamboyant, powerful wine is the quintessential example of an old style Barolo. Drinkable now, this wine should have no trouble lasting for another 10-15 years.