The 2005 Barolo Riserva Monfortino, also the product of a cool vintage, comes across as a bit nervous today. It is an absolute infant by Monfortino standards, a wine that automatically forces the mind to project into the future. Readers lucky enough to own it will want to wait for at least a few years. Its freshness and energy suggest another few decades of fine drinking are in store.

This is the most sought-after Barolo by collectors around the world, and the 2005 is wonderfully polished and refined. The tannins caress the palate with wonderful character of marzipan and dark fruit, orange peel and cedar. Drink or hold.

A rich, sensual tapestry of dark plums, cherries, smoke, incense, tar and licorice emerges from the 2005 Barolo Riserva Monfortino. Exotic, rich and layered, the 2005 boasts gorgeous depth and a sensual enveloping personality. I am quite amazed at how the 2005 has developed since I last tasted it, in November 2011. The once-firm tannins have never been more elegant than they are today. That said, as good as the 2005 is, it doesn’t quite have the thrill factor of the very best vintages. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045. AG

Mid, mature-looking ruby with orange tinges. Much more mature looking in fact than the Clos de Tart. Very concentrated, classic Nebbiolo nose. Brooding with hints of Chinotto and sweet spice more than fruit. Very beguiling, pulls you right in with dense fruit and the merest hint of leather. High acidity impact, but with such density of fruit. No heavyweight, though. Quite powerful tannin. At the beginning of its evolution but already remarkably accessible. Long. (WS)