The 2006 Barolo Riserva Monfortino, on the other hand, is a powerhouse. I haven’t tasted the 2006 much recently, as I know exactly what is in store: a huge, towering Barolo in need of considerable cellaring. Searing tannins give this dark, intense Barolo its distinctly brooding feel. Deep and massively structured, the 2006 is a Monfortino for the ages. I would be in no rush to open it.

This fantastic Barolo of the 2006 vintage shows amazing fruit character of ripe strawberry and orange peel, and great structure. Its length and linear style is glorious; it goes on for minutes. Will be even better in 2020.

Tasted from botte number 45, the 2006 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is gorgeous. Roberto tells me, “Monfortino is not a drinking wine, it’s a chewing wine.” His comment makes perfect sense and offers incredible insight into the profound beauty beholden before us. You almost feel the crunch of the young tannin and the snap of its presence in the mouth. The bouquet is perfectly matched to the wine. Elegance and finesse add contrast to the wine’s sheer power and determination. Dried rose, licorice, tar, spice and tobacco show immense definition and focus. The 2006 vintage is noted for its extraordinary aging potential. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045. (Monica Larner)