I debated whether or not to include the 2010 Barolo Riserva Monfortino in this tasting. Conventional wisdom says it is way too young, especially from magnum. You know what? I hate conventional wisdom. One of the undeniable truisms is that Monfortino is more enjoyable young now than it was twenty years ago. As for the 2010, it is every bit as monumental as everyone in the room expects. A wine of breadth and grandeur, the 2010 boasts tremendous depth in every dimension. Time in the glass brings out kirsch, rose petal, menthol, leather and mocha nuances, but the 2010 is ultimately a wine to adore for its complete and profound beauty. From magnum it is truly mesmerizing.

This is a mesmerizing wine with flowers such as violets and roses. Leather undertones with bright red fruits. Peaches and some lemongrass, too. It seems to change all the time in the glass. Full-bodied, tight and complete with ultra-fine, powerful tannins that are just seamless and beautiful. The richness of flavors is incredible. Yet, subtle and reserved. Endless pleasure. Will age forever. Upgraded from two years ago. Better in 2022

The 2010 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a perfect wine and there are few things I am more sure of in this life. This is an extraordinary creation that bursts from the glass with a level of distinct intensity and elegance that is nothing short of breathtaking. The wine literally evokes an emotional and deeply visceral reaction thanks to the lasting impression it makes on your heart, mind and gut. This Barolo opens to a delicate garnet color that is brightened with crystalline luminosity. The bouquet offers an immediate curtain-raiser with chiseled aromas of wild berry, licorice, white truffle and tar. That explosive start is followed by a mounting crescendo of complexity and nuance. The wine is extremely silky and polished in terms of mouthfeel and this helps to underline its impressive persistence. Bravo! (Monica Larner)