The fruit feels so comfortable here, in the ripe-red zone; it ranges from cherry kernel to chocolate-coated red plums to glazed cherries. Integrated hints of bark and sandalwood. Full-bodied with strapping tannins and muscular, imposing structure and power. Notwithstanding, everything is in striking balance and delivered with remarkable precision and grit.

The Damilano 2016 Barolo Cannubi shows depth and a profound nature. This is the DNA of the Cannubi cru, maybe the most celebrated in the appellation with mildly compact, well-draining sandy soils (actually, a mix of 45% sand, 35% silt and 20% clay, to be precise). These conditions contribute to the dark concentration and the firm textural support found here. These assets are particularly apparent in this classic vintage. Dark fruit and dried cherry cede to earthy truffle and licorice. Of these various single-vineyard expressions, the tight tannins on this Cannubi definitely suggest a long drinking window. This wine is my favorite in this flight from Damilano, and this vintage of 40,000 bottles is distinguished by its sheer excellence.

Barolo. Tasted blind. Mid to deep ruby. Deep nose with quite a bit of concentration but not open by far. Quite firm yet elegant palate with coating tannins sticking to the embryonic, sweet-sour cherry fruit. Very long and juicy and tightly built. Firmer style of Cannubi. (WS)