The 2017 Barolo Castellero offers so many of the attributes that make the Fenocchio Barolos so appealing. Bold and savory, with terrific balance, the Castelletto expresses all of the energy that make wines from this Monforte site so intriguing. Sweet red cherry, white pepper, orange peel and sage are some of the many aromas and flavors that emerge over time.

Walnut, dried-strawberry and burnt orange-peel aromas follow through to a full body with round tannins and a chewy finish. This is very structured and powerful. Try after 2024.

Pressed rose, crushed mint, new leather and wild berry aromas slowy take shape in the glass. Full-bodied and youthfully austere, the firmly structured palate features ripe Marasca cherry, strawberry compote and star anise alongside noble tannins that need to time to unwind. Best 2027–2032. Kerin O'Keefe

A release of about 4,000 bottles, Giacomo Fenocchio's 2017 Barolo Castellero draws its fruit from a west-facing slope in the village of Barolo at the heart of the appellation that bears its name. The personality of this wine is easy and accessible, and the bouquet makes a simple presentation of dried cherry and simple fruit aromas. These are backed by some mild tones of earth and spice. The wine shows easy intensity and medium length.

Barolo. Cask sample. Just mid ruby. A tiny bit subdued with the cranberry and cherry fruit just coming out. Just a hint of black pepper and rusty nail. Sappy cranberry and raspberry fruit on the palate and with just the right dose of coating tannins. An east-facing vineyard that seems to have profited of its cooler exposure. Juicy and lively finish with tannic bite and with an elegant palate weight. (WS)