The 2016 Barolo Villero is a powerful, clenched wine. Then again, that's Villero. Readers will have to be patient, that much is clear. White pepper, chalk, dried flowers, dried red cherry and mint open up over time, but the 2016 is sinewy and nervous in feel, with just enough fruit to keep things in balance. Hints of sage, tobacco, leather and menthol add the closing touches of complexity.

The Villero cru is quickly gaining in prestige and celebrity. The 2016 Barolo Villero raises the bar on this group of new releases from Giacomo Fenocchio. If some of the other Baroli are slightly muddled in aromas, this wine shows a greater degree of focus and precision. You are aware of clear aromas of black fruit, plum, spice, leather and cured tobacco. The tannins are textured but integrated into the rich fiber of this vintage.

Castiglione Falletto. Tasted blind. Mid ruby. Intriguing, earthy, deep nose. The fruit unfurls beautifully on the palate, while it is still compact and minerally. Bags of grainy tannins on the finish following the fruit. (WS)