The 2017 Barolo Villero is another terrific wine in this range from Fenocchio. Dark and layered in the glass, with veins of the firm tannin that often defines Villero, the 2017 is wonderfully expressive. Sweet red cherry, iron, dried herbs and earthy tones all open in the glass. Readers will find a tightly wound, savory Barolo of real character. Give it a few years to unwind.

Such beautiful aromas with sweet-berry and floral character. Some cedar and sandalwood, too. Full-bodied with firm, round tannins. Lots of tar and asphalt to the pretty fruit. Very elegant at the end. Extremely attractive now, but will age beautifully. Such finesse and complexity. Try after 2023.

Giacomo Fenocchio is a truly authentic vintner of the Bussia vineyard. Although the Villero MGA has a southwesterly exposure, his plot is mostly south-facing. This vintage is restrained and elegant. Liquorice root, smoky woodland, wild strawberry: an extremely classic nose, with some rhubarb minerality. The attack is velvety, full of fruit concentration yet stern, even if without dryness or bitterness. Dusty on the finish, the acidity carries the long cherry kernel notes. A classic Barolo built to age. Drinking Window: 2021 - 2040
Tasted by: Aldo Fiordelli (at Alba, Hotel I Castelli, 29 Mar 2021)

A camphor aroma mingles with white pepper, scorched earth and ripe dark-skinned berry in this classically crafted Barolo. Full-bodied and savory, it shows elegance and tension, offering flavors of ripe Morello cherry, blood orange and licorice before a minty close. Tightly knit, fine-grained tannins offer austere support. Drink 2024–2029. Kerin O'Keefe

With fruit from Castiglione Falletto, the Giacomo Fenocchio 2017 Barolo Villero reveals a light appearance with lean hues of ruby and garnet. The wine is not especially bold in terms of mouthfeel. In fact, it shows moderate intensity with wild cherry, crushed rose and some earth or dusty mineral. The tannins are also tame. About 5,000 bottles were released.

Castiglione Falletto. Cask sample. Just mid ruby with the beginning of orange tinges. Reluctant nose with hints of raspberry fruit and savoury, malty spicy notes. With aeration increasingly perfumed. Elegant and almost vibrant fruit palate followed by bags of powdery tannins, but the fruit prevails. Same elegance and lightness of touch as the Castellero, but with a bigger tannic load and more depth. (WS)