A brightly jeweled ruby hue, the 2021 Barbaresco is super-expressive, with loads of wild raspberries that leap from the glass along with notes of strawberries, pressed roses, fresh orange, and violet. As it opens, it evens picks up some spice box, cigar incense, and cherry notes. Crystalline in nature and ripe, this next-level red delivers ripe, sweet tannins, great tension, and fresh, vibrant acidity, without any austerity. A luxury racecar, it’s fantastic and possibly the wine of the year. Drink 2025-2055. The Gaja estate was founded in 1859, although it was Angelo Gaja, the fourth-generation winemaker of this Barbaresco estate, who made the innovations that would help shape the region as it is today. The entire family shares responsibilities across their estates. Great attention is paid to their practice of sustainable and regenerative farming. The latest major development for the estate in Piedmont is a brand new winery exclusively dedicated to their still white wine production in Alta Langa, 16 kilometers away from the original estate. It was designed by the Italian architect Giovanni Bo, who the family have worked with since 1982. The vineyards of Gaia & Rey and Brassica will remain the same, but fermentation and production have moved to this location, which was completed in time for the 2023 harvest. There is greater biodiversity in Alta Langa compared to Barolo and Barbaresco, with 60% of the land being undeveloped land and hazelnut farms, and only 40% vineyards, compared to Barbaresco, which has 80% of the land under vine. For this reason, as well as the higher elevations, this area is seeing an influx of attention across the region. In 2015, the family purchased 30 hectares of land that had been planted to hazelnut trees, at an average elevation of 650 meters, which they have converted to vineyard and indigenous plants of the area. Cascina Langa, the historical name for the property, has soils that are rich in sand and tuff, which they believe will be well-suited for adding structure for the white varietals of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. They also planted several other experimental vines to learn what will work well in the region.

This was an epic vintage, and the entire Gaja family is ready to sing its praises. The 2021 Barbaresco sets the tone with sweet cherry flavors framed by spice, earthy notes and elegantly sweet tannins. Giovanni Gaja says the 2021 growing season had two phases: the first six months of the year saw rain and cool temperatures with some frost and soggy conditions until May; however, from June forward, the season saw sunny days without excessive heat spikes. Indeed, 2021 marks the beginning of drought years that lasted until 2023. Barbaresco was hit by hail on July 31, 2021, but the Gaja vineyards were unharmed. In line with the character of the vintage, this wine shows succulent fruit that is balanced and not too ripe. There is depth and volume here.

Their ‘Classico’ version made for generations. From 14 vineyards in the municipality of Barbaresco that total 21.4 ha at elevations of 250 to 330 m. Average vine age is 45 years. Fermented and aged for 12 months in mixed-size oak – on lees if barrique – then blended and aged a further 12 months. Bottled in June 2023, to be released in 2024. Transparent purplish garnet. Very perfumed. Very tangy and nervy rather than concentrated, but embryonic with a very dry finish. (JR)