Amplifying further, the 2020 Sori San Lorenzo is more muscular, with mouth-filling fruit and ripe tannins. It takes on more layers and is the most full-bodied of the wines, although it retains its stylistic elegance. It is spiced, with a bit of cedar and lavender. Allow it another couple of years. The Gaja estate was founded in 1859, although it was Angelo Gaja, the fourth-generation winemaker of this Barbaresco estate, who made the innovations that would help shape the region as it is today. The entire family shares responsibilities across their estates. Great attention is paid to their practice of sustainable and regenerative farming. I met with Giovanni Gaja for this tasting at the estate in Barbaresco and also made a visit to the nearby region of the Alta Langa, only 16 kilometers away from the original estate. The latest major development for the estate in Piedmont is a brand new winery exclusively dedicated to their still white wine production in Alta Langa, designed by the Italian architect Giovanni Bo, who the family have worked with since 1982. The vineyards of Gaia & Rey and Brassica will remain the same, but fermentation and production will move to this location. There is greater biodiversity in Alta Langa compared to Barolo and Barbaresco, with 60% of the land being undeveloped land and hazelnut farms, and only 40% vineyards, compared to Barbaresco, which has 80% of the land under vine. For this reason, as well as the higher elevations, this area is seeing an influx of attention across the region. In 2015, they purchased 30 hectares of land that had been planted to hazelnut trees, at an average elevation of 650 meters, which they have converted to vineyard and indigenous plants of the area. The winery, which I toured in March of 2023, will be completed in time to begin production for this year’s harvest. Cascina Langa, the historical name for the property, has soils that are rich in sand and tuff, which they believe will be well-suited for adding structure for the white varietals of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. They also planted several other experimental vines to learn what will work well in the region.

The Gaja 2020 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo has bright cherry, currant and underbrush. This wine is very pretty in the mouth, especially if you considered the silky nature of the weightless tannins. The San Lorenzo is fueled by a long finish and does not drop off on the mid-palate. It keeps going strong with red fruits, high notes and balanced acidity. The wood tannins are melted into the wine's fine texture.

Sorí San Lorenzo was one of the first single-vineyard Barbaresco bottlings, first released with the 1967 vintage. The closest of Gaja's three crus to the Tanaro river, the vineyard is more humid and temperatures in the summer are mild. ‘Nebbiolo loves humidity,’ asserted Gaia Gaja, who pointed out that the higher limestone content in the soils here results in thicker skins, giving better resistance to mildew and also resulting in more tannins in the wine. The textural tannins are immediately obvious in this 2020, supporting delicate, fragrant and sapid dark forest fruits, overlaid with scents of dried cherry and earth. Zesty acidity delivers a long, vibrant finish of earthy succulence, displaying great tension.

'Dry and mild winter and spring, followed by a warm summer with occasional thunderstorms, then cooler days until the harvest.'  Poured from magnum. Just mid ruby. Great depth of raspberry fruit on the nose but still quite subdued and tight. Just a hint of fennel seed. Gorgeous, supple and compact with fine but persistent tannins running through the fruit. Elegant, light of touch and very long. (WS)