The 2004 Costa Russi is deep, dense and wonderfully layered throughout. Usually the most accessible of Gaja's three single-vineyard wines from Barbaresco, the Costa Russi has more than enough tannin and overall structure to continue to drink well for another 15-20 years, perhaps longer. A sensual, open-knit wine, the 2004 Costa Russi is dazzling today.

Complex, fresh aromas of concentrated blackberry, grilled meat and chocolate. Full-bodied and chewy, with caressing tannins and a long, long finish. A brick house and beautifully decorated. Powerful. Best after 2012. 1,000 cases made. (James Suckling)

The 2004 Costa Russi is irresistibly sexy and opulent. As is typically the case, the wine is more overtly fruit-driven, with a round, supple personality. Sweet, long and richly-textured, it is just plain awesome in its display of generous, vibrant fruit, tar, smoke, minerals and herbs. It is the finest Costa Russi yet. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024 (Antonio Galloni)