The 2017 Barbaresco Costa Russi is gorgeous. Dark, layered and wonderfully inviting, the Costa Russi expresses the restrained style of the vintage and yet has terrific depth. Black cherry, plum, mocha, spice, leather and star anise build as this sumptuous, classically mid-weight Barbaresco shows of all of its pedigree. The 2017 is a lighter Costa Russi, there is no doubt about that, but this is also the most complete of the three single vineyard Barbarescos.

A pretty red with ripe-cherry, strawberry and floral aromas and flavors. It’s full-bodied and very tight with a creamy, polished palate that goes on for minutes. Very fine and polished tannins. Give this two or three years to come more together.

A dense and very tightly wound style, with the structure offering a firm grip on the well-defined core of rose, cherry, strawberry and currant flavors. Long and resonant on the finish, with an aftertaste of mineral, tobacco and earth. Best from 2023 through 2043. BS

In terms of production numbers, this is one of the smallest vintages we've seen from the Costa Russi vineyard. Thanks to replanting efforts, about half of the old vines were ripped out in 2017 (compared to the 2016 vintage that made 10,000 bottles with the whole vineyard in production). The Gaja 2017 Barbaresco Costa Russi offers a warmer and softer character compared to Sorì San Lorenzo and Sorì Tildìn. Overall, the wine is richer and more textured. I definitely taste the vintage heat with its slightly sweeter and more accessible tones of cherry, cassis and fragrant blue flower. Costa Russi is usually defined by lifted notes of aniseed and sambuco, and you get those here too, although they are a less pronounced in this vintage. This is a balanced and carefully assembled Barbaresco with a lean approach backed by fine tannins and bright acidity.

Barbaresco. From the Roncagliette cru. Mid ruby with orange tinges. Sweet cherry and bacon nose with hints of dried fruit. Savoury, sweet cherry palate shot through by lively, ripe acidity and bags of chewy tannins. The fruit seems a little marked by the heat, but will age gracefully. (WS)