One of the things I have learned over the years is that you can count on Angelo Gaja to make a strong showing in just about any tasting. Yes, I know, Sperss is not Barolo (a small percentage of Barbera is added), but at its core the wine captures the essence of Serralunga and is as representative of these hillside vineyards as any Barolo. Dark tar, smoke, leather, spices, menthol and black cherries all make an appearance in this muscular, full-throttle wine. While the vast majority of 1998 Barolos can be enjoyed today, the 1998 Sperss could use another few years in the cellar. It isn't a crime to open a bottle today, but this is one of the few 1998s that still has upside potential. Simply put, the 1998 Sperss is a jewel. Incidentally, I tasted through the entire 1998 Gaja lineup last year and found all the wines outstanding. Highlights included Sorì San Lorenzo and Sorì Tildìn, which along with Sperss, are terrific wines.

(these vines are 36 years old) Saturated, deep ruby-red. Perfumed, multidimensional aromas of plum, currant, tar, smoke and camphor. Sweet on entry, then superconcentrated and rich in the middle palate, with great chewy depth and compelling inner-mouth aromas. Like the San Lorenzo, this resounds in the mouth and on the very long finish. The sappy sweetness carries through on the aftertaste, ending with a suggestion of marzipan.

The 1998 Sperss reveals a perfume of black fruits, truffles, earth, and spice box. Dense, massive yet seamless, this beautifully integrated wine possesses low acidity as well as a terrific finish. Although evolved and delicious for such a youthful Barolo, it will age well for 20-25 years. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000

The 1998 Sperss reveals a perfume of black fruits, truffles, earth, and spice box. Dense, massive yet seamless, this beautifully integrated wine possesses low acidity as well as a terrific finish. Although evolved and delicious for such a youthful Barolo, it will age well for 20-25 years.

Very silky and refined red, with berry, cedar and floral character on the nose and palate. Full-bodied, with a solid core of fruit and cedar oak. Solid and tight still.--1998 Piedmont blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2010. 2,800 cases made, 580 cases imported. — JS