A vivid, super-expressive wine, the 1999 Sperss is in a beautiful place right now. The flavors are remarkably nuanced in the glass. Precise but also broad and structured, the Sperss pulses with dark fleshed fruit and plenty of tar, licorice, incense and smoke overtones. What a gorgeous wine this is.

1999 Langhe Sperss—Dark ruby. The 1999 Sperrs displays much Serralunga character in its licorice, asphalt, herb, and sweet dark fruit flavors, with notable persistence on the palate and a potent personality. A rising of menthol beautifully frames the big, tannic finish. A wine that kept developing in the glass, this Sperss offers outstanding potential for those who are patient enough to wait at least a few years. It should drink well until at least age 25. 95/drink after 2011, 03/06 (Antonio Galloni)

Good full, deep red. Wild aromas of currant, camphor, leather, tar, dark chocolate and game, with an enticing floral topnote. Lush, sweet and concentrated, but with a powerful underlying spine. Classic sweet-but-dry Barolo of great brooding richness. Quite dominated today by its structure and austere on the aftertaste, but this young Barolo offers terrific depth and persistence on the palate. May well merit an even higher rating by the end of this decade.

The 1999 Sperss, from Serralunga d’Alba, is logically more backward than the Conteisa, a blast of tar, licorice, and chocolate on the nose, opulent, dense, very firm and structured on the palate, mouthfilling and chewy in texture, and in need of time. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000

Floral and fruity, yet subtle and refined. Full-bodied, tight and racy, with firm tannins and a focused, reserved fruity palate, that builds on the finish.—'99 Piedmont blind retrospective (2009).