The 2004 Sperss is one of the most finessed wines I have tasted from Angelo Gaja's property in Serralunga. The darkness and gravitas of Serralunga are tempered by the supreme elegance of the year. Dark red and black cherries, smoke, tobacco, menthol and licorice flow through on the deep, resonant finish. This is another powerhouse wine that has been given an extra level of refinement in 2004.

Powerful and structured. Delicate aromas of sandalwood, blackberry, licorice and cherry follow through to a full body, with very chewy tannins and loads of pretty fruit and hints of vanilla. Sneaks up on you to deliver a red for aging. Massive. An amazing wine. Best after 2014. 1,500 cases made. JS

Gaja’s 2004 Langhe Sperss is an infant. Still incredibly primary, it exudes the essence of Serralunga black fruits, smoke and tar. The new oak is still very evident here and the wine seems to be at an awkward phase of its development. Still, it offers stunning concentration as well as length, with soft, caressing tannins that frame the fruit all the way to the long finish. This wine is in need of serious bottle age and may very well merit a higher score once it emerges from its temporary period of dormancy. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. (Antonio Galloni)

– The Wine Advocate#174, December 2007