The 2014 Barolo Sperss is an attractive wine from Gaja's vineyards in Serralunga. There is good depth to the succulent black cherry, plum, smoke and licorice flavors, although it doesn't quite have the explosiveness or power of the very best years. Because of the wine's slender personality, the oak is a bit more evident than is typically the case. The Sperss also feels a bit forced in terms of extraction and oak, especially next to the Conteisa, where the choices have turned out to be more successful in bringing out the best the vintage has to offer.

Sperss comes from two crus in Serralunga, and like Gaja's Barbarescos it's aged in a combination of barriques and large barrels. As so often is the case, it's a wine that combines power and finesse. It has a subdued cherry nose with a touch of oak, leading to a palate which is rich, powerful and tannic, but not too assertive. It's well balanced and fleshy, with lots of velvety texture and grain, and there's still an underlying freshness and finesse. Very long finish.

This is a slightly more subdued vintage of this legendary wine, albeit just as sophisticated as past editions. The 2014 Barolo Sperss opens to gorgeous aromas of dark fruit, wet earth and white truffle. The vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba produced much less fruit than average and suffered from bouts of downy mildew during the rainy seasons. But Serralunga d'Alba fruit is also harvested late, and that extra time was important for achieving grape ripeness targets. The wine presents depth and complexity within the context of a thinner vintage. Having said that, the bouquet is spectacular.

Potent candied cherry fruit, powerful with a sour tint on the palate. Finely chiselled tannins, like soft marble (is there such a thing?!) yet with a furry, floury character too. Chewy but very yielding. Very savoury, charred characteristics on the finish. High alcohol. (RH)

Serralunga d’Alba. Tasted blind. Mid to deep ruby. Deep, fragrant nose of cherry and raspberry. Cherry fruit on the palate that closes up swiftly. Plenty of acidity and polished tannins. Backward but with built-in elegance. (WS)