The 2020 Barolo Sperss is a bright red color and reveals an incredibly floral profile of rose petals and ripe strawberries. Aromatically light on its feet, with a joyous feel, on the palate the structure is more focused and compact, with mineral undertones that weave through with more a defined nature. It needs more time, but this is a fantastic red to drink over the coming 30 years. The Gaja estate was founded in 1859, although it was Angelo Gaja, the fourth-generation winemaker of this Barbaresco estate, who made the innovations that would help shape the region as it is today. The entire family shares responsibilities across their estates. Great attention is paid to their practice of sustainable and regenerative farming. The latest major development for the estate in Piedmont is a brand new winery exclusively dedicated to their still white wine production in Alta Langa, 16 kilometers away from the original estate. It was designed by the Italian architect Giovanni Bo, who the family have worked with since 1982. The vineyards of Gaia & Rey and Brassica will remain the same, but fermentation and production have moved to this location, which was completed in time for the 2023 harvest. There is greater biodiversity in Alta Langa compared to Barolo and Barbaresco, with 60% of the land being undeveloped land and hazelnut farms, and only 40% vineyards, compared to Barbaresco, which has 80% of the land under vine. For this reason, as well as the higher elevations, this area is seeing an influx of attention across the region. In 2015, the family purchased 30 hectares of land that had been planted to hazelnut trees, at an average elevation of 650 meters, which they have converted to vineyard and indigenous plants of the area. Cascina Langa, the historical name for the property, has soils that are rich in sand and tuff, which they believe will be well-suited for adding structure for the white varietals of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. They also planted several other experimental vines to learn what will work well in the region.

Showing the power and the contoured definition that is typical of Serralunga d'Alba, the Gaja 2020 Barolo Sperss is a wine of greater brawn and intensity. Yet its power remains elegantly in line with the character of the vintage that is ultimately more subdued compared to 2019 or the upcoming 2021. It offers a complete photograph of its territory with rusty ferrous notes, orange peel, dark fruit and licorice. There is a fun end note of dark Amarena cherry to conclude. That hint of sweetness ties into elegantly chalky tannins.

Sperss is derived from the MGAs of Marenca and Rivette, both in the heart of Serralunga. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks, and ageing is divided between barriques and large oak barrels. The 2020 presents floral and restrained wild strawberry aromas, with tobacco and graphite mineral notes. The tannins are dense, tense but ripe, imbued with orange peel to the refreshing finish.