Bright deep ruby. Precise, vibrant, deeply spicy aromas of blackberry, bitter chocolate and violet, lifted by a minty nuance. A wine of explosive sweetness of fruit and great depth; large-scaled but quite suave and light on its feet. Finishes with compelling palate-staining persistence and thoroughly ripe, mouth-saturating tannins.

Chocolate, coffee, smoke, licorice, and tobacco characteristics are found in the complex, deep purple-colored 1998 Sori Tildin. Surprisingly seductive for such a young wine, it exhibits abundant aromatic fireworks, fabulous fruit concentration, a layered opulence, more intensity, glycerin, and depth than the Costa Russi, and a spectacularly long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2025. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000

(from a blend of 11- and 36-year-old vines) Full ruby-red. Restrained but pure aromas of currant, plum, menthol and roasted meat. Supple, rich and seamless; less sweet and accessible today than the Costa Russi but already shows superb generosity of texture. Finishes with sweet, building tannins and excellent length. This may well shut down in bottle.

Wonderfully perfumed, with fresh raspberry, mineral and hints of tar. Full-bodied, with a racy tannin structure and a licorice, tar and berry aftertaste. Still very tight. But drinkable too.--1998 Piedmont blind retrospective (2008). Drink now. 1,050 cases made. (James Suckling)