One of the biggest surprises in this tasting, the 2004 Sorì Tildìn comes across as imposing and massively structured, with shades of pure power that are more typical of Sorì San Lorenzo than they are of Sorì Tildìn. Veins of floral, savory and mineral-infused notes run through a core of dark fruit. The 2004 is vivid, nuanced but also very young. With some decanting it is approachable today, but, frankly, I would prefer to wait another few years. This is a fabulous Sorì Tildìn.

Incredibly perfumed, with chocolate, mineral and blackberry. Full-bodied, with amazing finesse, strength and balance. Long and beautiful. A return to the quality level of 2001. Best after 2011. 1,000 cases made.

Gaja’s 2004 Sori Tildin floats on the palate. It is the most nuanced of these single-vineyard offerings, with gorgeous notes of tar, smoke, roses, violets, sweet toasted oak and earthiness that emerge from the glass in a counterpoint of sublime elegance and stunning purity. It possesses superb length and elegant, silky tannins to round out the finish. This extraordinary Sori Tildin will require at least a few years of bottle age, but it is destined to be one of the vintage’s legendary wines. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. (Antonio Galloni)

Good red-ruby. Superripe aromas of raspberry syrup and black plum, lifted by a whiff of juniper. Sweet, dense and deep, showing more oak today than the Costa Russi. Higher-pitched and less obviously complex today but this has a bit more stuffing for the long run. Finishes with substantial tongue-dusting tannins and a late hint of chocolate. This parcel is located at the windy top of the hill, and is slower to ripen than the Costa Russi, despite getting more sunshine.