I am shocked (pleasantly, I must say), by how closed the 2001 Barbaresco Santo Stefano is. Powerful, tightly wound and totally closed down, the 2001 exudes class. Orange rind, tobacco and smoke add striking aromatic complexity to the intense dark fruit. Today, the tannins are surprisingly intense and raw, so readers will have to be patient. The 2001 is superb, but the wine’s full personality will not be on display for at least another few years. There is a good bit of upside here.

The ethereal 2001 Barbaresco Santo Stefano is simply gorgeous. Translucent ruby in color, it offers a delicate nose of violets, spices, menthol and minerals along with layers of ripe fruit that unfold in a supremely elegant counterpoint of flavors and sensations, finishing with tremendous length. Not to be missed.

The 2001 Barbaresco Santo Stefano confirms once again that this is no longer the classic example of intense Nebbiolo from north of Alba. Giacosa does not cultivate the vineyard, and the grapes he receives, in 2001 as in other recent vintages, give a fragrant, rose petal, cinnamon, and licorice-scented wine, round and supple, already drinking well but capable of lasting another 10 years. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620