A terrific Barbaresco is the 1998 Rabaja. Complex notes of soy, earth, candied cherry fruit, and cigar box emerge from this concentrated yet intellectually challenging effort. Full-bodied, with a soft attack as well as a tannic finish, it will be drinkable between 2007-2020.

A terrific Barbaresco is the 1998 Rabaja. Complex notes of soy, earth, candied cherry fruit, and cigar box emerge from this concentrated yet intellectually challenging effort. Full-bodied, with a soft attack as well as a tannic finish, it will be drinkable between 2007-2020. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

A subtle and powerful red. Lovely aromas of raspberries, strawberries and flowers. Medium- to full-bodied, with muscular tannins and a long, spicy finish. Best after 2005. 570 cases made. (James Suckling)