My guess is that one day Giacosa's Barbaresco Rabajà will be viewed as the most successful of his 2000 Barbareschi. I loved the wine's structure and power. Endless layers of mineral and balsamic-infused fruit caressed the palate through to the finish. Wow!

The 2000 Barbaresco Rabaja is marvelous. It is also the most backward of Giacosa’s 2000s. Intense notes of minerals, menthol, plums and spicecake take shape in the glass as this regal, aristocratic Barbaresco reveals its pedigree and sheer class. Here the warmth of the vintage offsets the natural austerity and power of Rabaja, resulting in a complete, beautifully balanced Barbaresco of the highest level. The Red Labels get most of the attention among Giacosa’s 2000s, but the Rabaja isn’t too far off the pace. This will be a spectacular wine to follow over the next 10-15 years. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2025. AG

As seductive as it gets. Forget the slightly amber hue. Full-bodied, with fabulous, decadent, ripe plum, cedar and berry character, layers of velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Superb. Best after 2009. 580 cases made. (James Suckling)

Darker in color than the Santo Stefano, the 2000 Barbaresco Rabaja is spicier on the nose, with light notes of vanilla and cinnamon along with the classic Nebbiolo plums and tar. A denser, firmer wine, it possesses more sustained tannins on the palate. Plush, rich, and with a very attractive light graininess, it will offer excellent drinking from 2005 to 2020. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Brick-red, a bit less deep than the Asili. Lower-pitched aromas of chocolate, mocha, smoke and animal fur; the fruit is in the background today. Then fat, dense and sweet in the mouth, with more structure and grip than the Asili and a less roasted character. Very long finish features ripe, building tannins.