One of the truly epic, reference-point wines of the year, the 2008 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Matè lifts from the glass with the classic scents of Ginestra. Pine, menthol, smoke, anise, new leather and violets are just the prelude as the 2008 opens up. Dark, mysterious and totally seductive, the 2008 is simply magnificent. Grasso is one of the hottest growers in Piedmont today. This is a great example of the level of quality that is the norm at this small, family-run estate.

This is very minerally and stoney with hints of volcanic salt. Intense flavors. Full and juicy with a long finish. Gorgeous.

Licorice, tar, menthol, spices and crushed rocks are some of the nuances that flow from the 2008 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate. This dramatic, large-scaled Barolo impresses for its towering depth, complexity and sheer pedigree. Tar, menthol, licorice and spices wrap around the fleshy, deep finish. The Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate is considerably more powerful than the silkier Gavarini, but both wines represent the height of finesse in Nebbiolo. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038. AG

I could feel my heart racing as I tasted Gianluca Grasso’s 2008s. Both 2008 Baroli are drop-dead gorgeous wines that capture the purest essence of hillside Monforte brilliance. The 2008s have begun to shut down since I first tasted them from bottle in November, 2011. The focus, length and sheer pedigree, however, have always been on full display. My advice? Buy the 2008s and forget about them for a good decade-plus. Two decades would be better. These remain some of the most fairly priced, ageworthy wines on the planet. Congratulations to the Grasso family for two monumental wines that embody everything that makes Barolo so magnificent. These are both must-have wines.

Good bright deep red. Shy, high-pitched nose hints at strawberry, raspberry, rose petal, mocha and soil tones, plus a whiff of flinty reduction. Rich and full but weightless, offering outstanding, tingling palate coverage. Wonderfully graceful and energetic wine, finishing with perfectly ripe, noble tannins and palate-staining flavor. A real essence of fruit-and-flower nebbiolo perfume, which Grasso said was apparent even during the fermentation.

So graceful and harmonious, yet well-structured, with a lush texture covering the acidity and tannins. That provides the ideal foil for this red's flavors of cherry, plum, spice and tobacco. Finishes long, with freshness and an accent of mineral. BS