A bombshell Barolo, the 2004 Barolo Riserva Rüncot is superb. As always, the Rüncot stands apart from the other Barolos in the Grasso lineup, as it is aged in 100% new French oak, although 2004 was the first vintage in which Gianluca Grasso extended macerations and also time in barrel. Dark and mysterious in the glass, the Rüncot offers up a compelling array of dark red and black fruit, smoke, licorice and new leather, all with considerable freshness for a ten year-old Barolo. Even with all of its density, the 2004 is likely to remain a bit laid back relative to some previous vintages.

(tasted from barrique from a mix of clay and chalk soil; also from the Gavarini vineyard) Good medium-deep red. Complex aromas of redcurrant, plum, mocha, minerals and nutty oak, all lifted by an exotic whiff of orange peel. Superconcentrated, rich, minerally and impressive, with a more serious structure and a finer grain than the estate's other 2004 Barolos. Very impressive, mineral-driven wine that finishes with gripping tannins, juicy lift and wonderful lingering perfume. Gianluca Grasso, who started here in 1996, essentially invented this wine, which is now aged for at least 40 months in all-new barriques (the '01 remained in barrel for 33 months). The maceration lasts for 40 days, including 15 to 20 for the fermentation itself. "This wine is my son," said Gianluca. "Our other two Barolos are my brothers: they're my father's wines."