Bright red-ruby. Sauvage, slightly reduced aromas of crushed raspberry, black cherry, game and leather. High-pitched and tightly wound; strong acidity gives the wine a penetrating quality but leaves it a bit rigid today. Very fresh and youthful on the back end, but extremely unevolved. Hard to assess at present.

The austerity and high tannin of the dry, attenuated 1998 Barolo Le Gramolere is a perfect example, even though it possesses attractive underlying cherry, strawberry, and mineral notes. The wine requires consumption over the next 7-8 years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411