Dark red cherries, plums, smoke, licorice and violets burst from the glass in the 2010 Barolo Brunate. Translucent, transparent, yet powerful, the Brunate shows all the signatures of this great site. Here, too, the wine clearly needs time, but the balance is unquestionably quite fine. In particular, the wine's inner sweetness and pure perfume will thrill readers who like aromatically expressive Barolos.

Shiitake mushroom with layers of spices, black pepper and lead pencil on the nose. Medium body. Soya, dried wood and firm tannins. Medium finish. Better in 2016.

Compact and austere, yielding subtle cherry, berry and spice flavors. Underbrush and tobacco notes are the main themes now, but this remains fresh and long on the mineral- and spice-filled aftertaste. Best from 2020 through 2036. 83 cases made. (BS)