I admit I have never really found much to admire in the 1988 vintage in Piedmont. Perhaps that is because 1989 and 1990 are both of such high quality, while 1985, 1986 and even at times 1987 are all more distinctive. With that in mind, Mascarello’s 1988 Barolo is a truly enchanting and seductive wine. Absolutely haunting in its beauty, the 1988 offers up a classic bouquet of dried rose petal, tar, anise, orange peel and bright red stone fruit, with the translucent, weightlessness that only Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir can deliver. Crystalline and pure, the 1988 has enough balance to drink well for another decade, even if it doesn’t have the sheer weight of some of the surrounding vintages. The 1988 is striking when it is first opened and it is just as beautiful several hours later. What a wine!