The 1990 Barolo, on the other hand, is magnificent. Deep, powerful and intense, the 1990 still possesses exceptional density and all of the radiance of the warm, ripe vintage. The flavors are dark, bold and racy from start to finish. Quite simply, this is a super-impressive showing from the 1990.

Remarkably, the 1990 Barolo may turn out to be slightly superior to the 1989. Since this producer does not filter, it is unlikely that anything will be removed at bottling. Massive, with huge extraction of fruit, and a fabulously fragrant nose of cedar, jammy black-cherries, herbs, and roses, this extremely concentrated, well-integrated wine is a monumental example of Barolo. It will provide great drinking for 30 or more years. Like the 1989, the super level of ripeness achieved by most Piedmontese producers in 1990 makes this wine very accessible, even seductive when young. With a production of only about 1,500 cases, Bartolo Mascarello has a well-deserved cult following among admirers of the traditional style of Barolo. RP