The 1998 Barolo, on the other hand, is one of the more problematic wines of the evening, as it is mature or close to it, with plenty of earth, leather, dried cherry and smoke overtones. In this tasting, the 1998 comes across as rustic and not especially polished. The comparison with other, finer, vintages proves to be quite revealing. I would prefer to drink the 1998 sooner rather than later.

Healthy medium red with a pale rim. Powerful redcurrant, camphor and mint aromas, with some dried flower high tones. Very ripe and rich but uncompromisingly dry and youthfully aggressive, with strong acidity and powerful structure. Hiding its density today. Finishes bright and firmly tannic, with captivating licorice and raspberry notes. This already displays a broad range of Barolo perfumes.

Bartolo Mascarello’s 1998 Barolo is another of the more weightless, ethereal wines in the vintage. Sweet tobacco, earthiness, plums and prunes flow in a soft, elegant style. This is another Barolo that is simply delicious today, although readers seeking a more developed, tertiary experience may want to give the wine a few more years in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019.

The quintessential traditionalist, Bartolo Mascarello's 1998 Barolo reveals a deceivingly unimpressive plum/garnet/ruby color. However, the aromatics explode from the glass offering scents of Chinese black tea, licorice, black cherries, tar, and truffles. In the mouth, it is sweet, fleshy, powerful, and heady with exquisite purity as well as symmetry. This wine's aromas and flavors will convince readers that Nebbiolo is the Pinot Noir of Italy. It will undoubtedly tighten after bottling, re-emerge in 4-5 years, and age well for nearly two decades. Importers: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200 and Riservati, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 623-5758