1999 Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo

One of my favorite wines of the evening, the 1999 Barolo bristles with energy and classic austerity (in a good way) that are such signatures of this epic vintage. Laser-like in its focus, with bright flavors and bracing tannins, the 1999 is a textbook example of what traditionally-made Barolo in an important, structured vintage is all about. With air, the 1999 drinks well now, but it will continue to reward those lucky enough to own it for another two decades or more.

Palish medium red. Highly perfumed aromas of cherry, raspberry, wild strawberry and camphor, with spice and underbrush elements. A cooler, more energetic and perhaps finer wine than the '98, not to mention more backward. This has more precision and brighter acids but perhaps not the same sheer size or dimension. Today the tannins turn a bit dry, perhaps because the recent bottling has stunned the wine's middle-palate fruit. I would not be surprised if this ultimately merited a considerably higher score.

This 1999 Barolo, medium garnet, has the tell-tale fragrance of Cannubi, subtle notes of black cherries and wild strawberries, roses, anise, and cinnamon, and its medium body deliver plenty of pleasure in its supple texture, silky tannins, mineral and tar notes, and a pure, focused finish. These wines often put on weight and flesh in the bottle and age very well, and I would choose to drink the wine between 2005 and 2020. Importer: Robert Chadderdon, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185