Bartolo Mascarello fans will want to stock up on the 2009 Barolo, a great choice for indulging in pure pleasure while vintages like 2006, 2008 and 2010 take their time to develop in bottle. Dried rose petals, fennel, anise, sweet tobacco and mint are all very much alive in the glass. The 2009 is ethereal, graceful and utterly beguiling from the very first taste. I expect the 2009 will mature relatively quickly by the estate's standards, but there is more positive to that than negative.

The 2009 Barolo (aged three years in botte grande and one year in bottle) opens with a crystalline, ruby color and shows extreme focus and precision. Rosehip, forest berry, wild mint, lightly toasted pine nut, dried ginger and underbrush all appear on the ever-changing bouquet. The wine is extremely finessed and silky on the close with beautiful menthol freshness at the end. In Barolo tradition, fruit was normally sourced from many vineyards. The concept of single vineyards is relatively new. In keeping with tradition, this Barolo sees fruit from the Canubbi, San Lorenzo, Rue, and Rocche di La Morra vineyards. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035. (Monica Larner)

The 2009 Barolo (aged three years in botte grande and one year in bottle) opens with a crystalline, ruby color and shows extreme focus and precision. Rosehip, forest berry, wild mint, lightly toasted pine nut, dried ginger and underbrush all appear on the ever-changing bouquet. The wine is extremely finessed and silky on the close with beautiful menthol freshness at the end. In Barolo tradition, fruit was normally sourced from many vineyards. The concept of single vineyards is relatively new. In keeping with tradition, this Barolo sees fruit from the Canubbi, San Lorenzo, Rue, and Rocche di La Morra vineyards. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035. “The Last of the Mohicans” is a moniker that, with a playful touch of self-irony, Maria Teresa Mascarello uses to describe her winemaking philosophy. One of the most legendary cases of daughter-succeeding-father in Barolo today, this petite woman has superseded the enormity of Bartolo’s vision. Thanks to her tenacity and steadfast, she has breathed new life into the concept of “traditional” Barolo from her tiny winery at the heart of the Barolo village. If this winemaking school is experiencing a renaissance today, this is in large part thanks to her. She may be the last of the Mohicans, but she has started a new tribe. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

(14.5% alcohol): Good bright red. Cherry liqueur, raspberry and red licorice on the nose. Then surprisingly juicy in the mouth for this warm year, showing intense red fruit and mineral flavors accented by blood orange and spices. At once silky and light on its feet. this very elegant and refined 2009 Barolo finishes with suave tannins and enticing spicy lift.

An elegant version, with strawberry and cherry flavors that take on accents of tobacco and black tea. Vibrant and juicy, delivering a long, refreshing finish. Needs time for the tannins to soften. Best from 2017 through 2030. 1,350 cases made. (BS)

Developing mid ruby with orange rim. Interesting nose of spice, dried fruit and strawberry. Bags of ripe fruit on the palate. A little atypical for Mascarello, all that rich fruit. (WS)