Maria Teresa Mascarello's 2014 Barolo has put on a good bit of weight since I first tasted it, yet it remains nervous, tightly wound and compact - which is to say, very much in the style of the year. Time in the glass brings out a host of bright red cherry, pomegranate, mint, leather and orange peel nuances, but only with reluctance. The 2014 is a positively electric Barolo, but it likely won't be ready to charm anytime soon. Readers should plan on cellaring it for at least a handful of years. Sadly, production is down by 40%.

Here is another very successful expression from one of the appellation's legendary estates at the heart of Barolo. The 2014 Barolo is light and delicate in appearance with a delightful bouquet of wild rose, forest berry and blue fruit. Violets and lavender give the bouquet a pretty sense of lift and intensity that reminds you of the cool climate and long growing season that characterizes this vintage. This wine also offers evident freshness with bright berry flavors and a subtle feeling of crisp crunchiness. The tannins are superbly integrated within the silky and streamlined body of this elegant Barolo. This wine will surely offer exciting bottle evolution.

Maria Teresa Mascarello continues the uncompromisingly traditional style of her father Bartolo, who produced a single blended Barolo each vintage. This has a fragrant if reserved raspberry nose that's a touch austere, and while the palate is initially fresh, velvety and concentrated, it soon becomes assertive and austere, almost rigid. There is sweet underlying fruit to be found, however, and there's good length, but it clearly needs time to open up.

20-25 days on the skins and bottled at the end of July. Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. Enticing perfumed spicy cherry and raspberry nose with hints of dark earth. Continues to open up in the glass. Electrifying and vibrant on the palate with long-lasting, powdery tannins. Vibrant, almost tart, chewy cherry fruit on the finish. Great elegance. (WS)

No capello sommerso (submerged cap) and only 20 days on the skins. Despite the relatively short time on skins the colour is impressive. Amazingly concentrated mid ruby! Perfumed, ripe and concentrated nose with the merest suggestion of cinnamon. Succulent, supple and elegant with fine tannins. (WS)