Mauro Mascarello does not disappoint with his stunning 2010 Barolo Monprivato. This is an impeccable expression from Castiglione Falletto that imparts an immense sense of purity and elegance. The bouquet opens slowly to reveal pressed flower, cola, dried ginger, forest fruit and balsam herb. This is a magnificent expression of Nebbiolo that changes and shifts each time you come back to contemplate its aromas. That magical fluidity is also present in the mouth. The wine presents silky tannins and crisp fruit flavors. Given the sheer quality on display now, you can count on Barolo Monprivato to continue a slow and successful evolution in your cellar. This is a true beauty. (Monica Larner)

(this was a treat Mascarello pulled from cask at the end of my tasting): Medium red. Knockout nose showcases tangy red fruits, minerals and porcini. Conveys an impression of superb concentration and dusty extract, with the tactile solidity of the best young 2010s already coming through in spades. A wine of great length and potential. I'll play the interventionist wine writer and wonder out loud why this won't be bottled for another year. But as devil's advocate to my devil's advocate, 2010 is one vintage that generally has the extract and energy to benefit from an extended elevage.

Very fine, yet reluctant and savoury. Finely balanced palate that is minerally more than fruity at this moment. Very closed and with really compact tannins. (WS)

Compressed red fruit. Then so juicy on the palate, very different from most of the others at this stage. Much more approachable. Chewy rather than dry on the finish. Friendly and sweet fruited. (JH)