The 2021 Barolo Margheria is a brisk, vibrant young Barolo. Crushed rocks, slate, white pepper, orange peel and red-toned fruit are all nicely delineated. This is an especially lively wine for Margheria. While I appreciate its energy, the 2021 is very much on the lighter side and also a pretty big stylistic departure from the past. Expression of place is in a precarious spot.

The Massolino 2021 Barolo Margheria draws its fruit from Serralunga d'Alba. It reveals aromas of forest berry and wild cherry with candied orange, flint and crushed granite. I also find toasted aniseed at the back. The team at Massolino has done great work managing the tannins that feel quite silky and long, rendering a glossy sheen to the finish.

The 2021 Barolo Margheria has a transparent red hue and reveals a sweetly perfumed bouquet of preserved strawberries, purple flowers, herbes de Provence, and sweet herbs. The palate has more tension than the nose would suggest and has fine, coiled tannins, even acidity, and a refreshing feel with a chalky texture through its balanced and elegant finish. This is a lovely medium-bodied and weightless feeling wine from Massolino to drink over the coming 12-15 years.

Serralunga d’Alba. Just mid ruby. Lifted but still a little closed. Hints of earth. Almost-ethereal red fruit. Transparent and with fine grip. Long, wired red-fruit finish. (WS)