The 2020 Barolo Parussi is a classy, nuanced wine. It shows lovely textural depth and resonance, but in the mid-weight style of the year. Dark red cherry, lavender, rose petal, mint and spice all build nicely, filling out the layers effortlessly. The 2020 is weightless and elegant, with the understated textural depth that is such a signature of this vintage.

Massolino works mostly with Serralunga d'Alba fruit, but this is the one exception. From a vineyard site in Castiglione Falletto with sandy limestone soils, the 2020 Barolo Parussi is a stunner. The wine is radiant and bright with an especially direct and focused quality. I would describe it as razor-sharp. This adds to a general sense of fine polish and tightness. I can't get enough and I can't wait to see where it goes 10 or 20 years from now. Parussi is an 8,300-bottle release.

Medium ruby/red-hued, the 2020 Barolo Parussi offers a floral bouquet of wild raspberries, roses, tangerine, and dried earth. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with perfect ripeness, fine tannins, and a long finish. It’s a very pretty, graceful Barolo with lovely energy and a hint of saline minerals. Though it will likely improve with a few years in the cellar, it’s quite enjoyable now, with just the right touch of nervous energy. Drink 2024-2036.

Castiglione Falletto. Bought in 2007; the vineyard now is 55 years old. Lustrous mid ruby. Still quite backward and savoury rather than fruity. The palate is much more open with lush, supple, fresh fruit and gripping tannins on the finish. Quite gorgeous. (WS)