The 2017 Barolo Gattera has a bit more weight and density than most of the other wines in this range, but it, too, is a bit fleeting in feel. Dark cherry, mocha, spice, leather and menthol bring out slightly darker tonalities of Nebbiolo fruit.

This vintage from Mauro Veglio is a degree lighter in color and contrasts, and that less-saturated appearance is a common trait found across many of the wines from this warm and hot growing season. The Nebbiolo grape is particularly color sensitive, and the 2017 Barolo Gattera sees its fruit sourced from 70-year-old vines in La Morra, a site that is already earmarked for its delicate and nuanced approach. The bouquet is broad and not totally defined here, with some exotic fruit that is mixed with wild berry and peach blossom. I feel that the wine is short in the mid-palate, and that prompts me to suggest a shorter drinking window as a result. I am less convinced by this 9,000-bottle Gattera release than I am by the other wines in this flight from Mauro Veglio.