1990 Parusso, Barolo, Bussia

The 1990 Barolo Bussia appears amazingly youthful both in terms of its color and the freshness of its aromas. It was fermented in temperature-controlled cements vats and this winemaking choice has undoubtedly helped secure variety integrity. Although you do detect budding tertiary aromas, this is among the best-preserved wines I tasted from 1990. Dark cherry and blackberry are followed by candied apricot, licorice, red rose petal and dried tobacco left. I was especially impressed by the overall austerity and the silkiness of the mouthfeel. This bottle should be decanted 12 hours or more before consumption. Drink: 2014-2028.

Similarly, the 1990 Barolo Bussia (magnum) is a touch more forward than the 1989 but it nevertheless impresses for a richly-textured palate of plums, spices, prunes and flowers. This is a very typical Bussia as seen through the lens of a warm vintage that has given the wine a gorgeous level of richness and roundness. Expressive aromatics are woven throughout, adding further shades of complexity and dimension. Here, too, the higher percentage of French oak detracts a touch from the finesse of the tannins and the sheer elegance of the wine, especially when compared with the 1989.