Similarly, the 1990 Barolo Bussia (magnum) is a touch more forward than the 1989 but it nevertheless impresses for a richly-textured palate of plums, spices, prunes and flowers. This is a very typical Bussia as seen through the lens of a warm vintage that has given the wine a gorgeous level of richness and roundness. Expressive aromatics are woven throughout, adding further shades of complexity and dimension. Here, too, the higher percentage of French oak detracts a touch from the finesse of the tannins and the sheer elegance of the wine, especially when compared with the 1989.

The 1990 Barolo Bussia appears amazingly youthful both in terms of its color and the freshness of its aromas. It was fermented in temperature-controlled cements vats and this winemaking choice has undoubtedly helped secure variety integrity. Although you do detect budding tertiary aromas, this is among the best-preserved wines I tasted from 1990. Dark cherry and blackberry are followed by candied apricot, licorice, red rose petal and dried tobacco left. I was especially impressed by the overall austerity and the silkiness of the mouthfeel. This bottle should be decanted 12 hours or more before consumption. Drink: 2014-2028.